Can nicotinamide really whiten?
Nicotinamide is also known as nikotinamide
Amide is an amide compound of niacin, which can be further synthesized into nicotinamide, and nicotinamide is an intermediate product in the production process of nicotinamide.
Nicotinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a key component in skincare formulations. Recognized as a leading whitening and anti-aging agent, it has earned widespread acclaim in dermatology circles. Its efficacy in skin brightening has been validated by leading dermatologists. Moreover, nicotinamide has been clinically used for decades to treat conditions such as pellagra, angular cheilitis, glossitis, and atrioventricular block.
What is the role of nicotinamide? What is the mechanism?
Nicotinamide has whitening, antioxidant, anti-glycation and other effects, among which whitening is its star effect. Nicotinamide has a small molecular weight, can penetrate the skin and be absorbed directly by cells. After entering the cells, it mainly acts through the following two aspects.
√ Whitening: Inhibits melanin transport
Melanin only darkens the skin when it is transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Nicotinamide inhibits melanin transport by trapping it within melanocytes, preventing its release. This stops melanocytes from producing more melanin and blocks its deposition in the skin's stratum corneum, achieving a whitening effect.
√ Anti-Glycation
The brownish substances produced by skin "glycation" cause darkening, while niacinamide has proven to effectively combat glycation and reduce the yellowish discoloration caused by protein glycation. It accelerates skin metabolism by promoting the shedding of melanin-containing keratinocytes. Additionally, niacinamide maintains skin's energy balance, restores cellular vitality, and stimulates collagen synthesis, thereby facilitating the removal of melanin-rich keratin cells.
√ Repair skin barrier, moisturize
As ceramides are essential components of the skin barrier, niacinamide works by boosting ceramide levels in the stratum corneum to strengthen this protective layer. This is why it's hailed as the "natural skin barrier". For most skin barrier issues, niacinamide helps repair damaged keratin layers, enhances skin resilience, and maintains hydration while improving moisture retention.
√ Delay aging
Skin aging stems from multiple factors. Over time, the skin naturally darkens, loses its luster, and becomes dehydrated. Nicotinamide works by stimulating collagen regeneration while reducing glycosaminoglycan (GAG) production. This compound effectively minimizes visible signs of aging—such as wrinkles, flaky skin, and enlarged pores—while protecting against free radical damage. Through these mechanisms, it helps prevent premature aging, repair skin damage, and combat facial dullness.
What kind of skin is niacinamide suitable for?
Niacinamide is suitable for all skin types when properly tolerated. For dry skin, it helps repair the skin barrier and enhances moisture retention. For oily skin, it tightens pores while controlling excess oil and keeping skin hydrated. Even sensitive skin can gradually develop tolerance through gradual use, allowing you to safely incorporate it into your skincare routine once you no longer experience any discomfort.
Why is nicotinamide favored by brands?
Nicotinamide has become a favorite ingredient for skincare brands primarily due to its affordability. Initially, many brands were reluctant to highlight nicotinamide's inclusion in products, sometimes even creating new marketing terms by combining it with other ingredients. However, its popularity transformed the game-changer scenario. With both budget-friendly pricing and strong brand recognition, it has become a go-to choice for cosmetic brands. Moreover, nicotinamide's gentle nature compared to other similar ingredients further reduces brand concerns about potential irritation.
Nicotinamide, for one, has to be looked at objectively. It's not as magical as we think, nor as useless as we hear, and it works well with some other ingredients.